Light layout design for SS draft 1 & ramblings about choosing

Let's see if GF plaster board can proceed. Then we can use downlight designs for a brighter living room as draft below.

Keep the other rooms standard 1x cool white LED + 1x warm LED. Betting on developer's original layout should be sufficient despite what the reno contractor recommends as alternative overlapping LED placements on more points using weaker watt lights.

Below is shopping list for round 2 trip, hopefully last trip to the lighting shop.

A friend's hubby who is eletrical guy as his main job advises to go for 840 type LED, which is 4000 (K) warmth which is more gentler to our eyes. Try not to go for 830 LED , 3000 (K) as its more yellow.

830 = warm white, 840 = day light.

Quick googling for LED color temperature chart probably can help here.

LED light price scale with its Watt output. My take should be it's the intensity or how strong the light is. So if bigger space can opt for more lights or pick at least 18W to 25W LED. Those downlight type comes with it's driver part, so any damage happen to it we just replace the whole unit.

Another cheaper type is the downlight cone type. We screw normal E27 LED bulbs or incandescent bulbs if you feeling so old school to the holder. Bulb got blowed out, you buy new bulb any DIY replace yourself like a boss, easy as how kiddos replace caps of their coke bottle. The downside is it looks very old fashioned, else i would practically go for this type.

Oh right, the shopping list, below is the draft if everything goes according to plan.

6 pc from Car porch, gate lamp and staircase area.- need to snap photo for actual location of staircase again.

20 pcs from Balconies, bathrooms and bedrooms

11 pcs from kitchen area, living room, prayer table, store room and utility room.


Below are some idea for tiles grabbed from pinterest.

Balcony idea 1 - same size, different shade of colors

Kitchen /utility room idea 1 - 4 colors group into diamond shaped arrangnment. 2x white, 1x grey, 1x black.

Kitchen wall idea 2-  mosaic effect.

Kitchen idea 3- abit tricky since already have existing lower part such as above and need match. If wrongly match, the atmosphere it projects is kind of uh...toiletry? Current lower portion of tiles is a 1x1 feet light orange/beige color. So am thinking to go with subway/brick style laying for tile of similar shade color but maybe larger pieces.

Check how many LED lights your room/house need & my thoughts on renovation's choice

Got different feedback from contractor saying that the original developer's layout or placement of wired power point is insufficient. He suggest to for example in bedroom place 4 LED points to have sufficient light...

Maybe this is dependent on taste, requirement for use and what we intend to do with the rooms. E.g. reading, sleeping , relaxing etc......Living room most likely we can treat it as a showroom; have extra LED lights to eliminate shadows and give stronger light ambience.

Then there is also a choice of warm light (yellow, quite dark) , cool white (soft but white) and bright white (strong white light, but not necessarily highly luminescent than cool white) . This is input we get when we visited Puchong's Houses of Lighting , famous shopping place for cheap lightings.

Anyway, back to the topic; a little surf with Mr G reveals there is probably some scientific backings to how much light we need and formulas..hmm interesting if I have time to ponder about it. Not the right time at the moment..as im losing sleep trying to archive all my current thoughts now.

Link for reference here.

I took a sample of our bedroom, 14 ft x 16 ft x 10ft as in width x length x height.
Seems like depending on the design we want, we have quite some option. So not true that a bedroom of this type of size needs at least 4x 18W LED downlights.

We sort of decided against getting a hood. Seems quite useless in 3-5 years time, in addition to it's crusted oil debris on the hood steel linings that can contaminate your cooking over time. There is also maintenance for baffle type filter hood which is about min once in 2 weeks of heavy cooking. The cost of getting a hood seems more like will be put in better use if a) we install a 10' exhaust fan b) after 5 years we repaint the ceiling. Only worry i have is whether the build in cabinets will survive the test over time. That will remain to be answered by then i guess.

For sink, we are looking for at least 0.8 mm thickness type, probably narrow down to Cabana and HCE. One other requirement we need is the basket type filter that comes along with the drain. Undermount type is more thick and expensive apparently.

Tile - remains unexplored. Guocera is probably the brand of choice until we pay a visit to Super Ceramics.

Hob - narrowed down to Rubine, RGH-PEPPER2B-BL. Price wise economical, have safety valve, cast iron , aeshetic value with 6mm tempered black glass. Lowyat post have one guy commented that better get at shop since it will include cap and hose i suppose for hood and no additional delivery charge.
Another surf around the net, cast iron seems like is preferred for its sturdy build, lasting and non stick characteristics. However, its heavy , hard to clean , tend to rust if requirements permitted it and retains heat (well useless since we talking bout stand here, not cookery). One remark i heard is , cast iron is heavier, which helps it stabilize better for pan/pot balancing, not sure if this is true though.

from lazada, any thoughts about this? gimme a holler yo.

So much to do, yet so little time. Feels like racing uphill against current if this laments even make sense at all now..